A Provençal Excursion
Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur
Michael Tighe
March 13th, 2019
When we decided to visit Provence, I didn’t really know what to expect. I had seen the classic photos of lavender fields and have a Provençal tablecloth on my dining room table, but beyond that I was completely unaware of the spectacular beauty and diversity the region has to offer. Picturesque small towns nestled into hilltops, great wine, ancient Roman amphitheatres, rolling hills, gorges, mountains, hiking, beaches... did I mention the wine? There is a bit of everything here.
We made Avignon our home base for the first leg of our trip, and day-tripped to nearby small towns and villages. The countryside was gorgeous and the small, laid back towns suited it perfectly. The wine was, needless to say, a highlight. Tastings are free and friendly, and we secured a great bottle of Gigondas that will be hibernating in our cellar for the next decade.
Every door and shutter is charming, and painted with a perfectly Provençal shade of blue.
To contrast the villages, Provence has more than its share of ancient Roman architecture and medieval palaces. The city of Orange has a spectacular Roman amphitheater. Not far is the Pont du Gard, an ancient Roman aqueduct spanning the Gard river. Avignon is home to a Papal palace and the famously incomplete Pont D’Avignon. The list goes on from there.
Many towns in Provence have weekly farmers markets. We paid a visit to a few of them, including a great one in the village of Gordes. It was packed with great food, produce, fabrics, local artists, and of course, lavender. We picked up some Provençal style olives, tomato tapenade, saucisson and fresh bread for a delicious picnic lunch.
After leaving Avignon and the surrounding area, we made our way to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, a small town tucked into a hillside in the Gorges du Verdon. One of our only regrets of this trip was not spending more time there. Between the charming town and the incredible landscapes and hiking minutes away, we could easily see ourselves booking an entire trip based out of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie alone.
Climbing up the path towards a church perched high above the town at night made for a spectacular view. We could hear the distant thumping of music from the outdoor party happening in the main square. The church and accompanying graveyard were barely lit. I stepped briefly inside the open, completely dark room, but didn't have the nerve to venture too far from the door.
As with Provence in general, I didn’t know much about the gorge, and didn’t know what to expect. I was not disappointed. The landscape is spectacular, the hiking is great, and the roads are terrifying. Once we wore out our legs and our nerves, we took our last afternoon to rent an electric boat and slowly drift our way through the mouth of the gorge.
Reluctantly, we left the Gorge and moved on to our next destination. Saint-Martin-Vésubie is located in the southernmost reaches of the Alps, just before they meet the sea. The Italian border is a few hours of mountain hiking away.
Several Grande Randonée, which are long hiking trails running through France, can be found here in the southern Alps. They are well marked with red and white strips, and have small shelters along the way in which you can sometimes find snacks, refreshments, and maybe even a beer.
We stayed at a great bed and breakfast overlooking the town, where we made instant new friends in a couple from Carcassonne. Their musical southern-French accent was the ultimate test of my French comprehension skills.
The Col de Fenestre hike brought us right up to the border with Italy, and a few steps over it in pursuit of some chamois (a type of mountain goat).
Besides being a great launching point for exploring the region, the town of Sainte-Martin-Vésubie stands on its own as a place to visit.
Finally, we wrapped up our trip with stops in Nice and Marseilles. Nice is a great place to walk at night in search of a great restaurant, of which there are countless candidates. We shared the largest and most diverse seafood platter ever assembled. It was an entire ecosystem on a plate.
After scouting out the best location for a sunset photo of Nice a few hours earlier, we arrived to a disappointingly overcast sky. At the last possible moment, the clouds broke.
